Sunday, July 10, 2011

Dedicated to the supply chain in Farmland Indore India

Maia in impish certified organic cotton child's play print top.
 
Maia in imp`ish certified organic cotton clothes Hello Sailor Top and Long John Leggings.



 This blog is dedicated to all those people in my supply chain that make imp`ish organic cotton kids clothes possible especially the farmers! 
I have had such trial with my production supplier with this delivery in June even after my trip to India to meet the owner of the factory I use and build a relationship with him and the production team. In retrospect it doesn't matter, the modest humble people in the farmland on Indore made me feel like I was supporting a greater good and to not let any of these quality control issues stop me from producing in India.

When I think back to my last few days of my short trip to India...i feel all tingly that I got to see the a part rural farm land and stay with a family, ( which I 'll have to talk about in my next blog entry)
Even though my nerves were shattered into teeny tiny egg shell like pieces i managed to enjoy my situation and stay in the moment.
My first bit of excitement was booking my train ticket at the International booking office at the Delhi train station the long was at least 30 people representing many nations of travelers all ages. I thought I communicated well that I wanted 1st class no air conditioning being that it was Spring. However when I arrived at the train station at 10.30pm that night my carriage and set was definitely sleeper class...and too my surprise I was surrounded by men in my lower bunk location. I nervously dragged all my luggage that I checked out of my hotel through the streets and onto the train going to Indore an expected 12 hour journey. Pulling and carrying my bags onto the train I disturbed a few families before arriving to my bed/seat, of course my fellow bed dwellers were already snug with luggage locked onto there bunks.
I made sure my latest Mac book pro was tucked under my head, it was a hard pillow but i was tired and also a little frighten to close my eyes. Thankfully I had bought 2 blankets from a near by shop owner a few nights before with 3 scarves for 300 rupees and snuggled my cold feet into them and around my head which lay in the draft from the window. Where in wafted the fragrant smells of human and animal waste with spicy under tones and the noise of the old train.
I first woke to the morning clearing of the nasal passages of my male bunk bed dweller opposite me which was not what i expected sleep was not deep but was event full with the opposite top bunk male going up and down the bunks all night which freaked me out cause he stepped on my bed a few times.
The morning air was full of train smells combo of popcorn, dahl and wees.
Everyone had toothbrush and flannel in hand taking turns to the what i thought was a bathroom but when told its not a bathroom i deside to keep working my pelvic floor muscles and continue to hold on till our arrival. The bunks were folded up after chanting and we engaged in conversation about yet again what does my husband do what was his wage? Well i had to tell some lies about that  (being that we had just separated that would be difficult to explain)...

Children waving to the train.
I was thankful to the kind men in my train compartment who rang the contact for me and spoke to them in Hindi and explained when i was arriving so I was meet at the Indore train station by the driver and taken to Mahima Purespun office to meet the company Owner and director. 
There we went for lunch and had a wonderful meal and I quized him about the company, the cooperative of farms and how they have helped the community in the farm area with a social project with a school for those families that work with Mahima Purespun.

All the seed is provided free to the farmers, conversion to organic takes 2 years.
The National Certification of India NPOP all USDA IFOAM standards 50rpc to set up, 50% fees upfront 50% after audit.

4 acres = 800kg = 32,000rpc or 40rpc kilo.
Mahima Coop and Ginning Mill has 190 farmers 10000archers Bakner area the farmers manager Pawan named his daughter Jajuaka which mean Organic in Hindi.
Cotton takes 210 days to grow harvest is in June – October. 1st season sow crops need a lots of water usually dependant on the rainy season which is from May 15th – June 30th.
The farmer industry in the area industry are: 1st cotton, 2nd maize, 3rd soy, 4th wheat, 5th chilli.
The Bakner area most fertile in the country for many crops. 2nd season for cropping  February wheat  2-3 harvests per year.
1 lorry = 1250 quintals 1 quintals = 100kgs arrive daily per truck. During September – October the mill goes all day with many lorries arriving with 1250 quintals load.

 Raw cotton is sorted into piles of grades which is then put onto conveyor belt to start ginning process. It goes through 2 stages of ginning to remove seeds and pods from the cotton boles.
The seeds go out side on a conveyor belts and into piles to be sold for cotton oil. After ginning the cotton is put on another conveyer belt being feed into machinery for compressing into bales according to grades to be sold per bale weight at 165kgs.


Cotton ready for bale machinery bales weight 165 kilos
500 tonnes a month at Mahima Purespun spinning mill the company that spins our cotton. 35000 - 50000 acrchers of farmland with Bangladesh the biggest buyer of organic cotton for the European market. 
Spinning mill 60000 bale 165kg bale 55% humidity required for cotton to be spun onto reels.

20% waste sell waste wholesale clean it twice for road side market. Processing raw bales gets sucked by machinary which gets sucked through to spinning machinery.
Fibres are pulled together for 1st thick spinning cylinders then spun to single thick fibre yarn then high speed single thin yarn then triple spin for yarn to reels according to weight 1.25-2.5kg.

Packaging cotton reels ready for boxing to be sold and sent for fabric manufacturing.
 Whole process form start to finish takes 8 hours. Factory runs all day long 8 hour shift for workers all fair trade certified Purespun Mill Factory.
  
After visiting the mill and the ginning plant some 2 hours from Indore, I stayed the night and had a fresh day off to the farm and the school. 

The high light was the farm the family I felt up prepared as I had no gifts for them. The home was so modest and tribal made of clay and cows manure and urine. The family was 3 generations under one roof with extended family uncles aunties and cousins too. They gave me a gift of a coconut and greeted me with one of the young woman putting the red clay Hindu symbol on my forehead that was incredible to be part of that cultural tradition for visitor who are treated as gods in their homes.


First awkward photo in their house, they were so shy.


The farmers use enriched compost and biodynamic practises, using cow manure urine concentrate in bulls horns buried under the ground for a month and then create a spray with neem oil and water with the concentrate as a natural pesticide and fertiliser that feeds the crops. 


The round cow pat cakes are used as a fuel to burn in the fires and are slow burning all waste from the cows are used and scared.
I respected and was blessed by there generosity, they asked me if I was hungry and feed me small crab apple like fruit straight from the tree in the middle of the cotton crop. They asked me if I liked maze(corn) which of course I said yes and they started a fire and picked corn straight from the plants and throw them on the open fire in the husks. This was amazing moment to not be able to be understood with the language barrier but the human connection with them and the children was a great feeling one I will never forget and hope to have again in my next trip.  They gave me a coconut which I tried to give back to the oldest son took it with me and gave to my drivers family.


Picking the crab like apples from the tree.



Cooking corn in the husk on the fire...eating was done by picking the kernels off with your fingers.




Family children playing with me.


My respect of course went most to the women the mothers who worked extremely hard. I tried to get the farm manager to translate to them that you Indian women on the farms work much harder then women from my home in New Zealand and that we sit on our bottoms alot...they laughed and said they didn't understand. They have so many chores with no electricity and plumbing to help them with cleaning and cooking and the animals they have to tend to with milking and feeding. Plus when its harvest they work all day to pick 25 kilos of raw cotton a day which when you think how light cotton (or compare with cotton wool) seems a huge task.
The cotton and other crops are stored in the house to keep dry and they sleep mostly out side in wooden slate beds (without mattresses). I love and respect these people and it brought me to tears when I was leaving. I gave the children some pencils, made a effort to give the head of the family rupees which was welcomed.

Picking cotton in their aprons and caps to keep the cotton free from contamination.
I'm thankful for the experienced how its motivated me to continue producing and supporting the organic cotton industry in India. Planning my own mission project to contribute to set up a school near the slums by the manufacturing factory. Life is good and blessed with so many choices to help create some change.


Much love
Joanne xo

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Winds of Change

I had a productive exciting morning today with my lovely and talented friend Vibeke Brethouwer, we met Melissa Mcintyre (also a mutual friend on our Island) from Buana Satu the daughter and establishing member with her Mum and owner Helen - of this iconic store in Auckland's K'Rd, its been around 21 years.
We're helping Melissa with the web side of business (lack of at the moment) made me realize how much time I spend at my table on these networks seeing whats out there what others are up to and getting my story out too.
The story is what it's all about for me...after getting how it all started for Bauna Satu it made me appreciate how our journey in life sets us apart in business and to sell that as much as the service or product because that human connection is what we crave to recognise the similarity in our lives.

Buana Satu is one of my stockists for imp`ish so I left the samples of the range, to make her order as she sold out of our first range. I feel because  2/3rds of my shipment is here - well at the Auckland Airport I can focus on what's next, or where to put it all next in my house 300 kilos 37 boxes (there small).

Then I got a call from my newest stockist The White Room in Dunedin, who placed there first order and are very excited about have the range in there design store.

What an impact for a store front... The White Room

Its been a incredible week for change seven days with challenges, joys and life lessons to give me more greys, but joys and heart felt connection like never before! I bought my first car (which gave me some trouble), my children's Father moved to Sydney; my shipment was incomplete but sent anyway from India with huge shipping costs at Auckland end (which is not the norm). My first baby and only son Sam turned 14 - yeah legal baby sitter, his application due for Dilworth's college has been grueling.
I postponed my Dragons Den appointment with New Zealand Trade and Enterprises as I'm stuff with mucus and coughing like an old smoker so unable to do my 20 minute pitch. My life is full and i asked for it!
So very grateful for my family, parents, friends and god, who with love and support make me believe so much is possible!

My oldest and youngest Samuel 14 and Lucia 2 - he loves her so Palm Beach Waiheke Island.

Much love Joannexo


Saturday, June 4, 2011

NEW TOPS and SHIPMENT on its way...

Its a rainy Queens Birthday weekend, but my mind is distracted with the buzz of anticipation for my new tops that i got images from my Indian manufacturer a few days ago.
Plus the shipment is supposed to leave on Monday the 7th June wooohooo! Its been sooo long and i'm thankful for my stockist patience.
I'm super thrilled at the collaboration between Faith my 10 year daughter who helped me design the Hello Sailor collar print top. I explain what I wanted thickness of stripes and how the collar and tie could be and she did a fantastic job!
I'm so proud of my creative kids and like there opinion on what i'm doing especially my 12 year old daughter Grace who wants everything in her size too. When I started Organic Island Baby 5 years ago Samuel who was then 9 wrote the text for our logo which i love!



Faith and her original drawing for "Hello Sailor" top in certified organic cotton jersey in grey marle with the collar purple.


Our other new top is our "branded" print in black both new tops are available is sizes 3-6m up to 5 years.
Better pics will come on kids when they land these are on the desk of factory owner!






My design team who will always inspire and help me want to make the world better with our family business.
Now its time for me too to relax and do some knitting!
Much love Joannexo

Friday, March 11, 2011

Smells, Sites, Sounds & Tastes

When I reflect back on the recent quick trip to India it being a month ago now today that I would have had my first day in the factory its amazing what stands out.
The smells, sites, sounds and tastes are what first impacted on me.
The odors are like nothing before experienced within the large cities the combination of exotic spices to animal and human waste and in one wiff. In the country the amazing scent of farm life, burning ash, cotton crops and living compost.

The overwhelming sites of a sea of people and some many dark skinned which is different for me to feel like i blend in. Being of German Samoan Sri Lankan Dutch decent I was starred at alot but it was a complement to be spoken in Hindi, too feel like I could fit into this melting pot.
My first full day I attached myself to a mother and daughter who i fell in love with because of there Argentinian warmth they let me hangout with them and we moved down the road in Pahar Ganj to a cheaper yet slightly cleaner (less bugs) hotel. 


I felt that day my heart was ripped out with so much poverty around in the city and filth that they lived in on the streets yet they had such joy at the simplicity of there life. There religions were a driving force which was undeniable with so many temples it was a joy to experience.
 On that day we tried to go the mosque in Old Delhi but were asked to leave as it was dusk and no women were allowed. People begging I could not resist giving money and food, my heart was broken with mothers sitting with their children. I wished i had bought items of clothing that i could give them to use or sell but next time i will know.


The food gave me so much joy there and without reservations i stopped eating meat after the first morning visiting the local food market and seeing the dead chickens in the cages, (apparently earlier that morning were slaughtering them). All other food intolerance i forgot totally getting into the amazing roti, chapati and Palik Paneer (cheese & spinach curry) of course i ate like and India. When asked what I wanted for breakfast at the hotels i wanted Indian breakfast some Dal or peas and potatoe curry Aloo Mattar with yogurt they thought i was a strange western lady. Oh how i miss the Chana Masala...chickpea curry.




Since returning home I have bought the flavours I loved with me which my son Sam feels a little ripped off as there's no meat in them. I made sure I asked how to make a good simple curry and whats the secret to making a chapati? The staff in the office at the factory where so thrilled at my interest and love for India food. They would share there lunch with me in there packed lunch boxes that looked better than what I would expect a normal New Zealander to eat, so healthy and so proud of it, there warmth and love was in the cooking.
I once got lost in the area where i was staying walking around looking for nothing but probably supposed to be getting to the factory by train eventually. I was approached by a young man who noticed my lost look on my face - he took me back to  my neighbour hood pointed me towards my train. However not eating breakfast the brown eggs on offer at my hotel i asked him to take me to a good local place to eat for Indians. Well he took me to a place lets just say i wouldn't have gone there on face value. It was full of men which for India was common but for me was a whole new experience, and the smells were yes very appertising but the hygiene of the place was not. The plates were well lets just say not what i would normally eat off, but i sucked it up and enjoyed the food, the company and the conversation which always lead to be about marriage as I'm fascinated about arrangements and how it seems to work.


 



The sounds of streets night and day are full night time was the street dogs fighting and the day the yelling, endless horns of autos, cars and music i loved the vibe it was a real shock at first. It was like my nerves were all egg shells but the excitement is thrilling. Although i would happily crawl back to  my hotel every night to watch very romantic sitcoms filled with gorgeous India people starring longingly into each others eyes - nothing randy on India TV!
The traffic is a topic I can't describe in a few words- perhaps life threatening but the thing is it works cars coming from all directions beeping when there turning in or out of roads lanes or in front of cycles, people and cows. Thank goodness drink driving isn't an issue and there is so much traffic so they can't get over 60km even on the motor way which is a blessing.


The sites were eye candy I love colour and its eveywhere. Its a trip in site stimulation, beautiful looking people, women who love there traditional dress and once married have to where coloured saris. The colours are a joy and I want to take it into my blue and grey wardrobe!



Much love Joannexo

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Kids INStyle for imp`ish

We returned to the Sydney Hourdern Pavilion again last month on my way back from India to show the new samples get feed back from the stockists i have in Australia and see how I can help them. Plus attract new retailers and agents for each states for continued sales.

So I asked the question to the retailers what would you prefer to see, how would you change things, what do your customers need, and of course what sells best?

It was a good open minded attitude to have as I know how hard it is to be in retail having had the Organic Island Baby retail store for 2 1/2 years, before launching imp`ish.

Questions were well received and I tried not to take any answers to personal - knowing full well I am not my customer. Since than I have changed a few things in the range confirmed with my manufacturer in India, being flexible to the needs of the market and look forward to the shipment landing next month.

There was a lot more Organic Cotton clothing brands this year than last, at least 5 more stands so knowing my point of difference was important.
I'm excited by the feed back and new stockists that have joined us and I hope to spread the word about my India trip so to help the stockists understand the importance to our story, and being non gender specific kids clothes.


Our imp`ish red stripe top and model holding organic cotton from our Indian mill.


The branch rack thanks to our faithful stand merchandising team.




Lining up images.


Sharing our stand with Lynsey from Lynsey Champion Hats and Mozzies Kids Hats.


Me with my baby friend who turned many heads in our imp`ish /dulce&zoet sling.

Monday, February 28, 2011

2011 what a amazing year already for gratitude

So much has happened this year already its coming to the end of February and what a momentus month. The day after i arrived back from India and Sydney work trip, Tuesday 22nd February 2011 Christchurch had it's tragic earth quake which breaks my heart in such a surreal way, but its happened in my homeland; so many have suffered and will continue to do so.
 Before that February for me was been all about getting to India and Sydney Trade Fair Life Instyle in the children's section Kids InStyle.
I had a incredible time in India at the garment factory, ginning and spinning factories and farm, the experience has motivated me to achieve more for those people that touch the course of the garment from seed to finished product.
The trip was an adrenalin rush as i was only there on the ground for 7 days and another 4 days were in transit between New Zealand and India back again, and I moved quickly to get done what I needed. Days working with owner of factory and merchandising staff to confirm my sample cuts and fabrics. Then off on the over night sleeper for my 13 hour ride to Indore city to travel by taxi 3 more hours to visit the ginning, spinning and most importantly the farm. The beginning of my train trip was peacefully soothing once the rhythm of the train lulled me to sleep but I first had to get over my self consciousness of all the India men around me. However this I had figured out from the moment I stepped out of customs at Delhi airport it was a male dominated culture. Ongoing experiences lead me to believe as a darkish women in India I wasn't as big a target as other tourist but when dealing in business matters I was not a common occurrence. Yet I held my own was patient as ever. The journey to the farm was turning point when I realised what a blessed life i have and what a opportunity this is  to make a difference in peoples lives that don't have much choice in how to improve on there situation, especially for the children. The women work so hard on the farm even before they have to go and harvest the cotton - picking 25 kilos a day when in peak harvest in September - October. However they have the beautiful land and rich cultural practises as tribal people with there religious beliefs which with biodynamic farming is a joy to see.
At the garment factory in the city its different again, the people on the floor the tailors and women who trim the threads, iron and pack the products live in the near by slums. They have come from out side of Delhi to look for work and have gained skills to earn, yet each day outside the front of the factory gates were men begging for employment.

Over the next coming weeks I will continue my journal here adding what I remember and from my scribble note book..thankfully I can share the experience on paper too with Natural Parenting magazine and also Peppermint magazine i learnt so much about the industry in such a short time and will be returning every year to commit to help change in the small way i can. Its such a massive country and made this little island girl feel small and helpless at times but i know i we can make a difference.
much love
Joannexo


Sunday, July 11, 2010

Whats goin on...? Work in Winter to keep Warm!

Wow its winter here on Waiheke Island. That means cold toes, early nights trying to keep noses dry and working around the kids and demands of the home with 6 kids it never stops.
School holidays is 1/2 over and we've have been just hanging out at home and reflecting on the other half of the year what we're gonna do.
imp`ish has taken off orders are coming in and Spring is around the corner...oh but it hasn't been without its set backs the order was late from India, not to mention the red knee pads ran in the wash and have had to be unpicked all 800 knee pads!
 So far WE my team of dedicated women confidants, friend network on this wonderful supportive Island have come to my rescue. Life sends you challenges and set backs but its how we react or change to adapt to the problem that will make it no longer a problem...my kids have taught me that alot.